by Helen | Sep 20, 2024 | Spain, Travel
Situated in the southern Andalucian town of Medina Sidonia, Ático 73, Victoria, is advertised as an adults-only hotel. Although we’re not averse to staying in places which are child friendly, it’s nice sometimes to know that peace and quiet are probably most definitely going to be the order of the day. Advertised as a hotel, it’s more of an elegant, renovated, traditional-style Andalucian townhouse, with an impressively large entrance room, an internal courtyard and several large rooms, suites and an apartment, all on the first and upper floors. Each space is said to have its own unique touch and although there are communal areas, everywhere feels very private and we certainly felt that we experienced complete relaxation.
It is clear that this hotel aims to provide an escape from the daily hustle and bustle of life. Although it’s located on a quiet street in the pueblo blanco of Medina Sidonia, it’s once you step through the doors, that you feel a sense of calm washing over you. There is no reception and check-in is done online, so all you need are the codes to enter and access your room. Sometimes, it is good to be greeted by someone, but sometimes it’s also good to feel that you are entering your own home, rather than a hotel. And that is exactly what this felt like.
Polished microcement, concrete, rattan furnishings, jute rugs, rough textured walls, soft lighting, natural tones,pristine white walls, wooden floors, marble columns, and stone archways – all executed perfectly. My favourite kinds of decor and accessorising.
The hotel has a lovely rooftop to relish the views, across the rooftops of the pueblo blanco and down across to the city of Cadiz and the beautiful coastline – a fabulous place to also take in the very dramatic sunsets.
We stayed in a small apartment – larger than a studio, and perfect for the two nights we’d booked. With a small, well appointed kitchen area, which seemed very new and well equipped, to a lounge/sleeping area, with a sofa and a very comfortable bed and quite a large separate bathroom, with a good sized walk-in shower.
The townhouse is located close to Plaza de Espana, so it’s only a short walk to a decent amount of bars and restaurants. Median Sidonia has a lovely feel to it – even in the height of the summer, it still felt a little bit “undiscovered”, as it wasn’t thronged with tourists. In fact, we liked it so much, we decided to have an extended stay for here for a month, in a different, larger apartment, while we wait for the legal process to trundle along and the purchase of our town house to complete. It’s been a great few weeks, getting to know this pretty town, which is perfectly located – half an hour to the beaches around Cadiz and an hour to the main resorts on the Costa del Sol. So glad that we’ve been investigating places we might otherwise not have known about, such as Medina, and spend time as tourists and locals.
by Helen | Sep 17, 2024 | Spain, Travel
When we booked a four night stay recently in Tarifa, La Guardia apartments seemed a pretty perfect choice. Self-catering, right in the centre of the old town, in the middle of all of the action, contemporary and stylish judging by the photographs, and although not the cheapest option, did seem like a pretty good deal for the facilities on offer. So, we arrived, on a hot, hot Sunday, full of expectation for a relaxing stay in our concrete effect apartment…
(Photographs : Booking.com)
The apartments are let by what seems to be an anonymous management company, and this really only came to light after we had checked in. Communications prior to check-in had not led me believe we’d be dealing with a faceless company, but I did find one of their emails quite surprising, when I was advised, that under no circumstances, could we check-in before 5pm. Seemed a bit stern and inflexible, but we just went along with it. Self-check-in was OK – easy enough and sometimes we do like not to have to do small talk, but things started to go a little awry when we just could not get the air-con to operate. The wall mounted unit is clearly visible in the bottom left photo, above, and as we’d received no indication that anything was wrong with it, we continued to try and get it to turn on, as it was very, very warm in the apartment. Which, by the way, on first impressions was a lovely as the photos above suggested…
After about ten minutes, it was apparent that we were either doing something wrong or the aircon was just not going to play ball, and so I messaged “Paloma”, who had sent me lots of messages, including frequent reminders of the €80 cleaning fee. I’ll come back to this one later…
Whilst waiting for a reply, we decided to have a glass of wine. Not a huge issue, but there was only one wine glass – another message was sent to Paloma, asking if she could arrange for another glass. When you book an apartment for two people, for four nights, a second wine glass seems quite an obvious thing to expect, I think. Anyway, Paloma arrived and also brought a box of six new wine glasses. With seven glasses, we were now well set up and thanked her for bringing them to us. So, onto the aircon, as we asked her to show us what we might be doing wrong.
Oh, we weren’t doing anything wrong. “It is broken…” Sorry, Paloma, what was that you just said? In an apartment, where the outside temperature was in the high thirties, there is no aircon? And, in the flurry of emails and WhatsApps you had sent me, you didn’t think to mention this? Or arrange for us to be allocated an apartment where the aircon was working? According to Paloma, she couldn’t have alerted us to the broken aircon system, because it had just happened and although they had tried, they could not get an engineer to come out and fix it, because the necessary parts could not be located…
So, this made us scratch our heads. If it had just happened, how had they had already contacted an engineer? Who had alerted them to the fact that the aircon wasn’t working, as don’t forget, we couldn’t check-in in a minute before 5pm? How did said engineer know which parts were needed if no-one had been out to see it? And why weren’t we alerted to the fact it wasn’t working? Oh, and don’t let’s now forget it’s now about 5.30pm on a HOT Sunday afternoon in Tarifa, when all self-respecting aircon engineers will probably be at the beach, with family or having a beer. Come on, Paloma, you’re going to have to try a little harder than this!
And, to her credit, she did. She remembered that under the sink, in the bathroom area, was a mobile aircon unit and pulled it out for us, and stuck the plastic pipe into the beautiful concrete effect sink, so that the condensation could drip away. Hmmm…what about when we used the sink? You know, to wash our hands or brush our teeth? Oh, that’s not a problem, said Paloma, you can also wedge the white pipe out through the window. And yes, this had obviously been done before, by many guests, as the wedge shape of the open window, was very clear in the plastic pipe.
Aside from the ridiculous set up, we did question why a mobile air con unit, which had clearly been used A LOT, was ready and waiting for us – Paloma was not sure why. We went a bit back and forth with the whole situation, and as this mobile unit was very noisy and wasn’t reducing the temperature any, I asked that we be moved to another apartment, given that it was fairly uncomfortable and we didn’t feel that this particular one was fit for purpose. She didn’t think any other apartments were available but would go off and check with management. From our window we could see into another apartment, which by almost 7pm on a Sunday evening, still had no guests in it, and to be doubly sure, I checked on booking.com. And there we had it – an apartment which was available. So, we felt all would be resolved quickly and we’d be moved.
Not quite so, though. Paloma informed me by Whats App, that they had no availability. All apartments were booked. NO, they’re not, I told her. I’m looking into an empty apartment (although I did understand that guests could be checking into it later), but I’m also looking at at least one, available apartment, online. Can we not just move there and providing the air con is working, we’ll just then get on with our break? Leave it with me, she said, I need to check with management. More hanging around, but she finally came back and said yes, they had found an available alternative after all, but not until tomorrow, and could I just please cancel my original booking and re-book the new one? Oh, and I know you have booked for four nights, but when you move to the new apartment we can only accommodate you for two nights, not three, so you’ll have find somewhere else for the Thursday night. OK, not the best scenario as I had booked and paid for four nights – in total €520.52, so by my calculations €130.05 per night – meaning I would expect a refund of €130.05 for the fourth night. I think by this point Paloma, was keen to get on with her evening and not have to deal with me any more, so she conceded that the original apartment, was, as I said, “not fit for purpose” and that it should not have been let out, and we should have been informed and that other arrangements should have been in place. Unfortunately, this was all verbal – but at least she had agreed, if only to get rid of me. We would be able to move at 11am the next morning – *no sooner*! – and so we went out for the evening, and cooled down. Only to return and have a pretty sleepless night, due to the heat and the noise of the mobile air con unit.
Next morning we were up bright and early, eager to leave but also to make sure that the apartment was left in PRISTINE condition, as we did not want to fall foul of this piece of information, which we received when we booked, and which was reiterated in subsequent messages :
A damage deposit of EUR 80 is required on arrival. This will be collected by credit card. You should be reimbursed within 7 days of check-out. Your deposit will be refunded in full via credit card, subject to an inspection of the property.
Moving to the new apartment was smooth and it was a pretty cool apartment, both in terms of decor and temperature. The air con was working! Similar in style, but more natural in terms of styling and colour and with a comfortable dining table and chairs, much better suited to a self catering apartment. And, to add our increasing feeling of satisfaction, an email from booking.com popped into my inbox, with the subject “Refund”. Paloma had come good…
But the refund was for €51.66, significantly less than my calculation of one night, which I worked out to be €130.05! And, because of the issues we’d had the previous evening, and my growing feeling that this management company was not entirely guest focused, there was NO way I was going to let this go. So, back onto Paloma. To say she wasn’t overly delighted to hear from me, is something of an understatement. She was taking no responsibility whatsoever, for any of this, especially the refund – which I understood completely, as she was not management (as she kept reminding me) and so asked to speak to someone from management. Absolutely not. She simply could not do this. Guests are not allowed to speak to management, and in any event, the refund that had been issued, was it. Nothing more would be issued, even though she could not explain why the company were effectively keeping €78.39. Things, for me, took a bit of a turn, when out of curiosity I checked booking.com again, and there, right in front of me, was the apartment we had vacated not an hour earlier, back online for anyone to book and about €30 more than we had paid for the equivalent of one night. I was FURIOUS! Not only were they trying to retain some of my money, but if rented, the company would actually profit from letting out an apartment which I was pretty sure would still be unfit for purpose, with defective aircon.
So, to cut a long story short, I spent most of the rest of the early afternoon onto booking.com, explaining the whole situation. Multiple times on hold. Multiple times retelling the same experience. Eventually, I was advised that they would contact the company and could I stay on hold? Fifty minutes later and I was reconnected. They had been unable to speak to anyone from management – now, there was a surprise – but Paloma had admitted that things were not acceptable and that the additional refund could be made and should be in my account within seven days, but that I should call back tomorrow just to confirm that all was being processed. Hold on, but I thought Paloma couldn’t make decisions like this…
Next morning, back onto booking.com and even though they confirmed that they had all notes on my case file, I have to explain the whole thing again. And they have to call Paloma again, to confirm that refund will be generated. And I have to hold again – only for forty minutes this time though. And at the end of the call, could I please call booking.com again tomorrow, to confirm that all is being processed…
Luckily, and I have no idea who made this happen, just before I was about to call booking.com, I received a notification from my bank. Yep, the sum of €78.39 had just been paid. The shortfall! Hurrah.
So, we had one afternoon left in La Guarida apartment in Tarifa, rather than the four days of relaxation we had originally expected. Looking back, I think it could all been have dealt with so much better. Rather than bringing a box of six wine glasses, when the requested one would have sufficed, perhaps a bit more thought could have gone into addressing the issue of defective aircon, which made the stay on night one, very, very uncomfortable. The dishonesty though, both in terms of not being truthful about the problem and then the pathetic attempt to not return the full refund initially, for one night, is what infuriated me the most. Lesson learned though – book somewhere with a largely faceless company, and you’ll get a much poorer service. They think they will have nothing to lose, and probably on most occasions, they won’t as I think most people, on holiday, might give up and think they’ll deal with it on their return, and then don’t, because it’s happened. It’s over. But I won’t give up, when I know that something is fundamentally wrong and I am right. And that’s why I’d urge anyone looking to book a stay in Tarifa, don’t be fooled by the nice photographs and write-ups of this place. It’s not about guest experience – it’s about all fur coat and no knickers. Scratch the surface and the contemporary interiors aren’t all that. The decor isn’t as high end, as the photos might suggest. It’s all done to look high end. A bit like the €80 cleaning fee they blocked on my card (not taken though, as there was NO way we were going to give them the opportunity), it’s all about the money.
Avoid La Guarida. They don’t appear to like guests. Especially those with a legitimate complaint.
And, btw, we did find a FAB place to stay on the Thursday. A room in a turret in a medieval castle, high up in the mountains, no less. With air con!
by Helen | Sep 16, 2024 | Interiors
Sometimes, you find somewhere to stay, that is just so exceptionally beautiful, you spend your whole stay, drinking in the interiors, the exterior, the accessories and accessorisation, and just well, the whole thing. On our roadtrip across Spain, we’ve been so lucky to stay in some pretty special places, but one which really stands out in the memory, is a renovated townhouse in Archidona, in Andalucia.
Archidona is a pretty pueblo blanco, with its centre crammed with typical Andalucian houses – white exterior, huge front doors, shuttered windows and small balconies. Hostal Aljibe is, from the outside, one such typical townhouse. However, once you enter the front doors, you know this place is something very, very special. Bought by the Belgian owners a few years ago, it was a complete wreck. We love a renovation project, but I don’t know how their nerves coped with this one! We saw photos of the before and during, and we wouldn’t even have considered this as a project, as it looked so beyond saving. Thankfully, Frank and Sabrina didn’t think the same way, and although, as they told us, the renovation process was pretty horrendous and arduous and fraught with never ending delays and bureaucracy, they persevered and now have a boutique townhouse hotel which is out of this world.
I could wax lyrical about this gorgeous townhouse for a long time, but I think the photographs we took will do it a whole lot more justice…
Our room was a suite on the first floor, with a large seating/living room area, with a small sofa, desk and chair and fridge and the most beautiful tiled floor. This space opened up into the bedroom – a very large room, with floor to ceiling shuttered windows looking down into the street below – and a well designed walk in shower and separate toilet. (The toilet in our room didn’t have a door, but because of its position – tucked away in a corner – this wasn’t an issue for us). The suite had a feeling of real spaciousness, because of the windows and the height of the ceilings, as well as the calming, neutral tones and textures used throughout. The attention to detail in terms of decor, styling and accessorising is off the scale. Everything has been thoughtfully and carefully considered, curated and positioned. No details are left to chance and absolutely no corners are cut.
The ground floor is separated into a reception area, a small lounge and a large open plan kitchen area (where breakfasts are prepared) and a communal dining area, which leads out onto the most exquisite terrace and up to the wow factor pool area.
I particularly liked all of the light and lampshades, throughout the small hotel. All unique and individual macrame shades. And I liked then even more when the owner told me she just could not source what she was envisioning for her hotel – and so via online tutorials, learned how to make these herself! They are really amazing feats of creativity – and absolute labours of love, as the large ones can takes up to three weeks to make! The effect of them, in the spaces where the are housed, is simply beautiful…
This hotel is flawless. From the thick sage green pool towels, rolled up and tied with ribbon in wicker baskets, for guests to use, to the simple but stylish cutlery at breakfast. Which is exactly as you’d imagine – faultless. Deliciously home made and in abundance, served to a background of Spanish classical music. Special mention given to the bed and the linen – utterly exquisite. And even more so, when we asked about it and were told it was from Zara Home. Guess what our visitors are going to sleeping on…
After we left, we obviously left a review for Hostal Aljibe. We do this for all places we stay at as we think a review provides information for other people who may be interested in the property, and also a bit of feedback for owners. Most people never bother to reply, and we never expect them to, as they are busy and we’ve provided the feedback. However, this reply from Frank and Sabrina really sums up them and their whole philosophy. A gem of a find in Archidona, which we will return to…
Dear Helen,
Where do we even begin to thank you for such an exquisite and detailed review of Hostal Aljibe? We are beyond thrilled to hear that you found our boutique hotel to be the most perfect place you’ve stayed in. It brings us immense joy to know that you appreciated the renovation and restoration efforts we put into every corner of our hotel. Your kind words about the natural tones, handcrafted chandeliers, and attention to detail mean the world to us.
We are delighted that you enjoyed our breakfast. We always strive to provide a memorable culinary experience for our guests, and it’s wonderful to hear that we succeeded. The courtyard and pool area are indeed some of our favorite spots, and we’re glad you found them as beautiful and tranquil as we do.
Frank and I are truly touched by your kind words. We strive to make every guest feel special and cared for, and it’s heartwarming to know that our efforts resonated with you. Your recognition of the peacefulness, tranquility, and calm we aim to create is deeply appreciated.
We are so happy that your visit to Archidona and your stay with us left such a positive impression. Knowing that you plan to return is the highest compliment we could receive. We look forward to welcoming you back for another perfect stay.
Warm regards,
Frank & Sabrina, Hostal Aljibe
by Helen | Sep 10, 2024 | Spain, Travel
The last time we visited Tarifa, was back in 2014 and it was a flying visit. We were travelling back from Seville to Nerja and stopped off for an afternoon, vowing to return, because we loved the tiny amount of the town and the beach, that we saw. Fast forward to 2024, and this time we stayed for four nights. We’ve been on a bit of an Andalucian roadtrip, as we are currently a bit nomadic – we’ve sold our home in Istria and are in the process of buying a Spanish townhouse and so are making the most of being currently homeless and discovering Andalucia. An apartment was booked in the old town, and it looked fab – all concrete and natural palettes and tones and wood, but when we discovered the broken aircon, everything unravelled slightly and a lot of the first couple of days were spent wrangling with the company we’d booked through and eventually with Booking.com. It’s a whole other tale, but we persisted and were finally moved and received a refund. Luckily, our accommodation woes didn’t affect our enjoyment of being in Tarifa, and we had the most fabulous short break, in the most southerly town in the Cádiz province.
Before checking in, we had a couple of hours to kill, so hit the coast road, intending to get to the famous beach of Playa de Bolonia, and the ruins of the Roman town of Baelo Claudia, considered to be the most complete Roman town ruins yet uncovered in Spain. On this occasion, we got no further than the dunes of Valdevaqueros, which were amazing! The road along the dunes was also a bit of an experience, as the strong, hot winds had blown sand across it, so it was a bit like driving on the beach itself. And the wind. Oh, the wind! It was so blustery, but also felt like a hairdryer – so much so, that I declined the running up the sand dunes task…
Tarifa feels such an easy town. There’s a real laid back vibe, with it’s surfer dudes, board shops, independent shops and boutique hotels. Plus it’s very, very pretty especially inside the old town walls. Because we weren’t really on holiday as such, we didn’t spend all of our time out and about. We still had to do client work and, due to malfunctioning aircon in the apartment (another story), quite a lot of our time was spent dealing with the agency who rented it and booking.com. All was sorted, kind of, in the end, but it did curtail our exploration of Tarifa. However, we weren’t too concerned as we did get out and about and now that we are moving towards being settled in Andalucia, we figured we could always come again.
So, our discovery of this beautiful town, was largely done in the evenings and at night, when we headed out to eat. Despite the issues we had with the apartment, its location was fantastic, right in the heart of the old town, about two minutes from the hustle and bustle of gorgeous restaurants, bars and independent shops. Tarifa has become increasingly popular with tourists, but it has managed to retain much of its charm and authenticity, and this is so evident in the old town.
If the history of places interests you, then Tarifa is well worth a visit. The region has been inhabited for thousands of years, with evidence of Neolithic, Phoenician, and Roman settlements. The Roman town of Baelo Claudia, located nearby, was a significant port city in ancient times. In the 8th century, Tarifa was one of the first places in Spain to be conquered by the Moors, and it remained under Islamic rule for several centuries, the town getting its name from the Moorish commander Tarif ibn Malik, who led a raid on the Iberian Peninsula in 710 AD. It was then reconquered by Christian forces in 1292 during the Reconquista, the campaign to reclaim Spain from Muslim rule. Its strategic location made it an important military and trading hub. Historically, these are probably the key attractions to visit :
- Castle of Guzmán el Bueno: This fortress, built in 960 AD during the Moorish period, was later expanded by the Christians. It’s named after Alonso Pérez de Guzmán, a local hero who defended the town from Moorish invaders in 1294.
- Puerta de Jerez: This is the only remaining gate of the old medieval walls that once surrounded the town, offering a glimpse into Tarifa’s past.
- The Beaches: Tarifa is home to some of Spain’s most beautiful beaches, including Playa de los Lances, Playa de Valdevaqueros, and Playa Chica. These wide, sandy shores are popular with beachgoers and water sports enthusiasts.
- Roman Ruins of Baelo Claudia: Located just a short drive from Tarifa, this well-preserved Roman city features a forum, temples, a basilica, and a fish-salting factory.
Tarifa’s architecture and culture reflect its long history of Moorish and Spanish influence. Whitewashed buildings with tiled roofs and narrow, winding streets give it a distinctly Andalusian feel, but being only 10kms across the sea from Morocco, you can also feel you are in North Africa. It’s definitely a town which blends cultural influences and has a really unique feel to it.
And, although I don’t think we’ll go the whole hog and take part in any of the activities on offer, such as wind-surfing, paddle boarding, kiting etc, we’ll definitely return to this most southerly part of Spain, with its very unique vibe.
by Helen | Aug 30, 2024 | Spain, Travel
We recently made a very exciting trip to Jimena de la Frontera, one Andalucia’s white washed villages, deep in the south west of the region. More on why we were visiting here. We had to do an overnight stay and so set about finding somewhere that matched our criteria – a bit quirky, boutique style, not hugely expensive and close to enough to the main amenities, including restaurants and bars. We’d never been to Jimena before, but loved the journey to get there – through beautiful countryside, dotted with white villages, cork tree forests (yes, these are a thing!), haciendas and very dried out river beds. As well as so many herons’ nests, on top of electricity pylons, some empty, some with a lone heron sitting on guard, and some with a pair, snuggled up together. As we approached Jimena, it looked as beautiful as we had hoped it might be – white washed houses tumbling down the hill, and a castle sitting at the top. A place we definitely though we could call home.
Casa Henrietta is a renovated townhouse on Calle Sevilla, the main street up leading from the main square, Plaza de la Constitución, The houses on Calle Sevilla are mostly very grand in appearance – lots of ornate shutters, wrought iron work around the windows, balconies, double doors, evidence of roof terraces. And one very special house, that we had an appointment to see the next day.
But onto Casa Henrietta. Located about a third of the way up the hill, it is an elegant white townhouse from the outside. Once inside though, you really how huge it actually is. The ground floor has an impressive communal lounge and seating area, with an open area where local artisans and craftspeople are able to sell their products. I have my eye already on a beautiful cream rug, which I know will eventually fit perfectly in our renovated house. The furnishings on this floor are very eclectic – lots of mixing and matching of styles and colours and fabrics. Lush plants hang down at different heights, complementing huge palms which sit in big urns and Moroccan style pots, with lots of artwork on the walls and thick curtains for texture. The best part of this lounging/reception area, is the enormous free standing bath, surrounded by plants and with a water feature, which sounds very peaceful and tranquil. Moroccan lanterns and Andalucian tiles add to the lushness.
We had a very large double room on the first floor, with a large terrace overlooking the countryside outside of Jimena. The decor is clearly the owner’s style – very colourful and again, eclectic. Lovely definitely, but perhaps a little too much colour for me. The house also benefits from a roof top terrace, which has the potential to be utterly stunning, but maybe a little too shabby chic. Seating areas definitely weren’t the most comfortable, but the views were astounding.
The house also has a restaurant, which certainly when we’ve stayed is only open on a Thursday – which has been very lucky for us, as each time we’ve stayed, a Thursday has been included. There is a very pretty courtyard, full of palms and potted plants and nooks and crannies full of interesting objects. There are plenty of tables, but there’s also lots of privacy from the tall plants. The menu is small – a selection of very, very tasty home made pizzas and delicious, fresh salads, and I have to say, each time we have eaten here, we’ve been super impressed. Locals also seem to come to here to eat, so it’s not a restaurant just for hotel guests, and it does seem to be a bit of hub for people to get together. Local wine is also on offer – and we’ve yet to try an Andalucian wine that is anything other than fabulous.
We’re very happy to have a hotel like this on Calle Sevilla, because if all goes according to plan, we may be quite frequent guests over the next few months…
by Helen | Aug 23, 2024 | Spain, Travel
Archidona first came onto our radars when we caught an episode of “A Place In The Sun” and this was the location. Not many places on this TV programme immediately appeal to us, as many are in tourist hot-spots, but Archidona, with its cobbled streets and white washed houses, perched high up on a hill, piqued our interest and we started to research properties, online. A few really caught our attention, and we book marked them, with the intention of viewing them, if still available, when we eventually came out to Andalucia.
Fast forward to us being in Andalucia, having sold our house in Istria, and the situation had somewhat changed. Houses that we had been interested in, had obviously been sold or were reserved – and a beautiful townhouse in another pueblo blanco had stolen our hearts. Although we’d only viewed it online, it interested us sufficiently to really do our homework, and we realised that the location of the house, in Jimena de la Frontera, was much more suited to us, than an inland town, which in reality was quite remote. However, our drive across Andalucia, took us near to Archidona and we decided we’d stay a couple of nights in the town, to get a feel for it and see if our minds were changed. We found the very beautiful Hostal Aljibe online, and had a short, but utterly amazing – and very inspirational – stay, in this renovated townhouse. This boutique hotel will be the subject of a separate blog, while this one will focus on our thoughts on Archidona.
It is a picturesque town that offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, and definnitely encapsulates the charm of southern Spain. Located in the province of Málaga, in the autonomous community of Andalucia, it is situated at the foothills of the Sierra de Graciais known for its rich historical heritage, stunning architecture, and beautiful natural surroundings. One of the town’s most iconic landmarks is the Plaza Ochavada, an octagonal square built in the 18th century, and considered to be one of the finest examples of Andalusian baroque urban design, and is surrounded by beautiful buildings with red brick and whitewashed facades.
The ruined remains of Archidona Castle, a Moorish fortress, can still be seen on the Sierra de Gracia, the defensive walls and gates also being remnants of the town’s Moorish past. But its deep history goes back further, dating back to ancient times, with evidence of human settlement from the Neolithic period. The town was an important Roman settlement and later a significant Moorish stronghold during the Al-Andalus period. The town’s name is derived from its Arabic name, Arxiduna. Which is also the name of the most famous restaurant in town, located on the historic Plaza Ochavada. The restaurant stands out for its unique blend of traditional Andalusian cuisine with modern culinary techniques. The menu offers a diverse selection of dishes, including Mediterranean classics with influences from Asian, Indian, and African cuisines, and known for its creative approach to food, Arxiduna has earned a reputation as one of the top dining spots in the area.
We had an amazing meal at this restaurant, on the square, as the sun was setting and dropping down behind the plaza. Tapas with a twist would be the best way I could describe it. All of the menu is only in Spanish, and if your Spanish is as limited as ours is currently, you have to just have faith in your phone app, as the staff don’t speak a lot of English. However, we didn’t mind this at all – with the reputation the restaurant has, we figured whatever we ordered would be delicious and well cooked and executed. And, we were right. For such top notch food, in such a prime location, in a well renowned restaurant, we were expecting quite a hefty bill at the end. And a hefty bill would have been worth it. However, we paid no more than we have done in all of our eating out experiences across Andalucia. A restaurant which truly focuses on food and the experience, rather than getting as much out of customers as possible.
We really enjoyed our stay in Archidona, and will definitely make a point of returning, both to stay again in Hostal Aljibe and eat again in Arxiduna. However, we didn’t change our minds about investigating it further as a place to live full time. Like many Spanish towns, especially in the summer, it is almost deserted during the heat of the day, coming to life at night. This isn’t necessarily a problem, but Archidona is just a little too remote and so probably not ideal for us, having spent the last seven years in a very remote location. A perfect place to visit, just not make our permanent home.
by Helen | Aug 22, 2024 | Lifestyle
Currently, most of what we own is in a storage unit, back in Istria, and we are travelling light (although the packed car would suggest otherwise), as we move around Andalucia, getting to know the region of our new home. The purchase hasn’t completed yet, so we don’t know when we can begin to arrange bringing everything over, but what is packed away in boxes, is already beginning to fade in my memory. I’m sure it will all be reassuringly familiar when we do start to unwrap and unpack, but it has given me the opportunity to consider the kind of house we want to create, rather than shoe-horning everything in and trying to make everything that was at home in Istria, as at home in a very different kind of house.
One thing that I know we will definitely incorporate, however, is beautiful Andalucian crockery. I mean, do you even live in Andalucia if you don’t have beautifully painted and patterned bowls and dishes and plates? In the new house, we are very lucky to have a big roof terrace, where a kitchen will be built so that we can make the most of the weather and the views, and I think this is where we will incorporate splashes of Spanish colour.
I am so looking forward to heading out and visiting those fabulous roadside pottery places, which are awash with colour and vibrancy. Plates and bowls stacked high. All colours, patterns, shapes and sizes. Matched sets or mis-matched, it doesn’t matter. Some will be used in the kitchen, some will be used decoratively on walls, some will be filled with fresh fruit. These places are real treasure troves, and prices are so much more competitive than in the boutique-y shops in towns.
Even more exciting though, is the opportunity to take the ferry across to Tangier from Tarifa or Algeciras and get into the souks. Tagine pots are on our shopping list, as well as rugs and cushions and Moorish ceramic tiles and lanterns and lights…
But, before any retail therapy can even be considered, we need to get the purchase completed and those keys in our hands. Both sets of solicitors are currently on their annual Spanish holidays, but things are in place for everything to start moving again in September. And, as there should be no unexpected complications – our solicitor has done all of the due diligence – we are hoping that we can complete quite quickly. And, get shopping…
by Helen | Aug 15, 2024 | Interiors
Denia holds some lovely memories for us. Over twenty five years ago, we rented a big villa with a pool and holidayed there with friends. None of us had very much money and a two week holiday was a big outlay, but we had such a great time. We have briefly re-visited since, and found the villa we had rented. Back in the day, it was one of the last villas before the land gave away to the slopes of the massif of Montgó, which forms the last spur of the huge Cordillera Prebética mountain range that runs across southern Spain from Andalucia to the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. It rises to 753m and dominates the skyline for a fair distance. Now however, villas encroach the mountain and it is a very different landscape. In our heads, we always thought that we were very close to Denia, but in reality, we realised that we were a good 10kms out of town – and so this time, we decided to try and stay right in the heart of things.
La Posada del Mar wasn’t the cheapest option we looked it, but its location, right on the sea front, was perfect and the hotel itself looked beautiful. And we were not disappointed. Situated at the foot of Denia Castle, the famous 13th century building, which was donated by the Spanish King James I to William of Cardona in 1243, has been painstakingly restored and renovated. Our room, with a small balcony overlooking the port, was modern and contemporary in design, with a natural palette. The sleeping/living area was huge, with subtle furnishings and lighting and accessories, giving an overall feeling of calm and relaxation.
However, for me, it was the communal/public areas of the hotel, which were the most amazing. With exposed stone walls, under-lighting and mood-lighting, historical artefacts and beautiful accessories, as well as the aroma of beautiful candles and diffusers, these areas were an absolute joy to discover.
Although we only stayed for one night, it was enough time to absorb lots of the design influences and the colour palettes. We have a clear idea of what we’d like our new home in Spain to eventually look like, but experiencing places like La Posada de Mar, gives us lots of inspiration. As well as creating lots of lovely memories…
by Helen | Aug 14, 2024 | Italy, Spain, Travel
Our trip from Istria, all the way down to Andalucia, has been an absolute adventure, revisiting places we’ve not been to in a long while, and taking in new places we wouldn’t necessarily see. Even though we were driving, we decided to cut out the route along the south of France and down into Spain. As beautiful as this is, it would have added a lot of time and expense to the journey and we’d done it in September 2023, so we decided this time to take the overnight car ferry from Genoa to Barcelona. It definitely wasn’t cheap – at just over €500 – but we figured what it what cost us in money, we’d get back in being able to get out of the car and have a good few hours of relaxation, before a good night’s sleep. So, we left Bologna and drove across some breath taking scenery in Emilia Romagna, before crossing into Liguria. The countryside was lush and green, and dotted with hilltop towns, always with a towering campanile. The roads were pretty effortless, even in early July, and on some stretches, we were the only car for miles.
Once we crossed into Liguria, the landscape changed, the greeness giving way to mountains, which had been quarried and hewn into – these marble quarries near Genoa primarily produce a type of marble known as Lavagna slate (or “Ligurian slate”). This slate has been historically significant for the region, especially for roofing, flooring, and other architectural uses, and although not as famous as the Carrara marble from Tuscany, Ligurian slate has its own importance and distinct characteristics. The marble and slate from the Ligurian quarries have been integral to the region’s economy, especially during the Renaissance and Baroque periods, when they were used extensively in local architecture. Quite exhilarating to drive past so many white quarries.
From the Ligurian mountains, we drove down towards the coast and were soon heading towards Genoa – and it was lovely to curve around the bay of Camogli, another place we visited a good few years ago but still had lovely memories of the pastel coloured buildings fringing the beach. And there they all were, still. Genoa is a huge city, and after living quite a rural life, for the last few years, it was a bit of thrill to be back in a hot, sweltering, melting pot of a noisy city, once again. We also hit rush hour, which normally would be a nightmare, but we just enjoyed soaking up the frenetic journey, with scooters whizzing past us, police cars and ambulances screaming around the city, traffic being regulated by the police, pedestrians weaving in out of the traffic and all the time, the hot, hot sun beating down.
We made a good decision hotel-wise, in Genoa, opting for somewhere we’d never normally consider – a Holiday Inn. Because we had to navigate the port the next day, we wanted somewhere fairly close, and somewhere that had a restaurant, plus parking. We knew we’d be tired after the long drive and didn’t want to complicate things and this turned out to be a great decision, as the Holiday Inn actually really surpassed our expectations. We had a room on a high floor, overlooking Genoa and the port and with a cracking sunset view. Car parking was secure and safe, and best of all, as we’ve come to expect in Italy, the restaurant was exceptional. Decor wise it was nothing to write home about, but the food was of such a high standard, that I still remember the taste of my seasonal vegetable soup and the trofie al pesto. Absolutely gorgeous – and washed down with excellent local white wine.
After a good night’s sleep, we were raring to go to catch the ferry, which was due to sail at noon. We’d booked the sailing to Barcelona, but had we investigated a little more closely, we’d have seen that the ferry then sailed onto Tangier, which would have cut out a whole lot of driving as the houses we were intending to view were in south western Andalucia, so we could have just hopped onto another ferry over to Tarifa. But, you live and learn, and in hindsight, we’ve explored and discovered so much more driving down from Barcelona, than we would have done if we’d sailed around the Spanish coast. Anyway, back to our scheduled noon departure. which didn’t happen – for some unknown reason there was a four hour delay, which meant, as we’d already checked in and were in the car queue, sitting in an increasingly sweltering car. I am also very glad I wasn’t in the driving seat, on this occasion, because when we did eventually board, the car had to be driven on forward, and then a very, very tight reverse manoeuvre had to be performed to get it facing the other way. It was pretty chaotic in the depths of the ferry by this stage, and I think we were just both relieved to get out of the car and up on the decks.
It was actually quite sad as we set sail – much more so than when we left Istria – because all of a sudden it felt very real, and I didn’t know when we’d next be in Italy. I think over the last few years, I’ve taken it for granted that we could cross over in Italy so easily, and all of a sudden, as the ferry sailed out of the Bay of Genoa, I realised that it may be quite some time before we return…
Our cabin was an internal one, and although it was for four people, like cabins on ferries, it was boxy and small and pretty claustrophobic, so we spent as little time in it as possible. The top deck of the ferry was beautiful as the ship sailed out of the port, but once it gathered a bit of speed, the wind whipped spray all around us and we had no choice but to retreat indoors – but not before we saw dolphins in the Bay of Genoa. Seven years in Istria and not a sighting of a dolphin! Half an hour on the ferry and we saw five or six jumping in and out the sea, following the wake of the ferry. Magical!
Thankfully, we didn’t have too long to wait until what was billed as the a la carte restaurant, opened. I was a bit dismissive of the idea of this a la carte restaurant. I mean, a la carte, on a car ferry? But then, I hadn’t taken into account that this was an Italian ferry. And, the food was, once again, magnificent! I did wish I had opted for one of the fish dishes, but I wrongly, very wrongly, assumed, the fish would be frozen. What we ordered was delicious – pasta and pizza – but the fish which was arriving at tables around us, was nothing short of amazing. Next time, though, I’ll know. Sleep was pretty fitful, as every noise was magnified, and at some point, we must have hit waves, as there was quite bit of turbulence but I must have also managed to get some shut eye, as the next thing I knew, we were being awoken by the crackling tannoy, announcing in French, Italian and English, that we would soon be arriving in Barcelona. By 9pm, we’d disembarked and were navigating our way out of the city, past Christopher Columbus, at the bottom of Las Ramblas, to head south and begin our big, Spanish adventure…
by Helen | Aug 9, 2024 | Lifestyle
Since our house in Istria went on the market in March 2024, after we completed the new garden to the rear of the house and did much internal refurbishment, our minds have been focused on finding our new home. We knew that our Istrian adventure had come to an end. For us, personally, we felt that our location was no longer quite right for us. Having to drive literally everywhere had started to take its toll and the lack of amenities in our immediate area, was really starting to do our heads in. When we had people staying with us, this was all fine and very doable, simply because we had other people staying. But when it was just the two of us, we started to feel that we needed more. So, the discussions started about where we might live next – and pretty quickly, we realised it wasn’t going to be Istria. As much as we love Italy, it probably wasn’t going to be here either, because of property prices (often too high for our budget, often too low with no potential to really increase the value of properties due to location) and bureaucracy which made Croatia seem sane. We ruled out France, too, after our road trip there last year – stunning, affordable properties, but often in places which were too far from the next nearest place, therefore potentially giving us the Istrian issues all over again.
So, our focus returned again to Spain, for lots of reasons. We love Spain. We know lots of areas in Spain. We’re familiar with Spain. We’ve been a fair few times, so feel comfortable with the idea of Spain. And houses are plentiful. Some are obviously way out of our price range, but lots are affordable. Lots have real potential. Lots are renovated. But the main thing which focused is, is that there is choice. Choice in location, style, condition, price. And so the search was on…
But Spain is a BIG country! Where to begin? Well, our logic was to begin with places we knew well. Barcelona – gorgeous and potentially the dream, but unless we bought way out of the city, we couldn’t afford very much. Also, did we really want to be in a big city? Probably not. Alicante and Valenica were discounted for similar reasons. Coastal towns also discounted because of the property prices, property sizes and the summer influx of tourists would ultimately do my head in, if we made one of these places our full time home.I also watched “A Place in the Sun” a lot! Not so much to follow the stories of people hoping to buy, but to get up to speed with other areas we didn’t know a lot about. And this is how we made our first inroads into serious house-hunting. We saw a couple of episodes, one which focused on Archidona and one on Alhama de Granada, both inland, white washed towns, in Andalucia. And after investigating estate agents websites, we did find two houses were very interested in, one in each town. We couldn’t just hop on a plane and view – we were in the middle of selling our house and experience told us, we needed to be accessible and around to answer questions, send documentation, and all that selling a house entails. So, I made contact with the estate agents and made sure they knew of our circumstances and continued to research the towns.
One in particular really piqued our interest in Alhama de Granada. Fully renovated, to our style, and from the photographs, looking like we could almost move straight in, but with the added advantage of potentially being to add value as we could improve the roof terrace and renovate the lower rooms which hadn’t been touched…
We communicated with the estate agents a lot about this house – but ultimately, it wasn’t meant to be. It was taken off the market by the owners, and although we felt disappointed and a bit deflated, through continued research, we realised that the area, as beautiful as it is, wasn’t right for us, because it was just a bit too inland. Another house we looked at a lot, was located in Archidona – this one was also renovated to our taste, had a roof pool and was next door to a beautiful boutique hotel, run by a couple from Chorlton. Small world, but again, it wasn’t meant to be as this one was snapped up. We think, over the weeks we were looking, we saw every town house that was available in Andalucia, from Almeria in the east down to Cadiz in the west. And, then, completely out of the blue, Lady Luck struck.
We discovered the white washed town of Jimena de la Frontera and were very taken by what we saw and read online. The location was pretty much perfect – about 30 minutes from the coast, 45 minutes from Tarifa and a couple of hours from Malaga and Seville. One estate agent’s website, in particular, became our go-to site and we earmarked four or five properties we were interested in and began making contacts. One property was listed as “Sold” but of curiosity, I checked it out and it literally jumped off the page! It was gorgeous and just about everything we had been looking for, so I contacted the agent and asked that if anything similar came his way, to please let us know. And guess what? The owners had decided to sell and it would be going back on the market! We knew we couldn’t just pop off to Spain and view, as we were in the middle of selling our house and getting everything into storage, so we had to cross everything, that this Andalucian beauty would still be available when we got out there at the beginning of July…
Fast forward to mid July, and we had arrived in Jimena, with a list of five houses to view. Our favourite was first on the list – and let’s just say, after viewing it, we didn’t even bother with the others. We had found the one!
We had half-heartedly agreed that we didn’t really want to take on another renovation project, UNLESS we found something utterly irresistible. Well, we think we have. On the main street in the white washed town, this elegant, double fronted town house is less than a minute from the main square and the bars and restaurants. Exactly what we wanted after our isolated village in Istria. So, we’ve acted very quickly – with the help of the estate agent (again, small world – he used to work in the Steak & Kebab restaurant in Didsbury village in the late 80s!), we’ve secured a solicitor and had a builder who lives opposite the house, and has renovated one of the town houses on the street, come check out the house, and he’s given it the seal of approval, after we discussed with him our plans and vision. And so, earlier this week, we signed the pre-contract and paid the deposit on our what has become our dream house! It’s all happened very quickly, and although we are now in Spanish holiday season and both solicitors are on vacation, we know that come September, we’ll be a whole lot closer to organising the transportation of our belongings and furniture from Istria to Andalucia!
