The last time we visited Tarifa, was back in 2014 and it was a flying visit. We were travelling back from Seville to Nerja and stopped off for an afternoon, vowing to return, because we loved the tiny amount of the town and the beach, that we saw. Fast forward to 2024, and this time we stayed for four nights. We’ve been on a bit of an Andalucian roadtrip, as we are currently a bit nomadic – we’ve sold our home in Istria and are in the process of buying a Spanish townhouse and so are making the most of being currently homeless and discovering Andalucia. An apartment was booked in the old town, and it looked fab – all concrete and natural palettes and tones and wood, but when we discovered the broken aircon, everything unravelled slightly and a lot of the first couple of days were spent wrangling with the company we’d booked through and eventually with Booking.com. It’s a whole other tale, but we persisted and were finally moved and received a refund. Luckily, our accommodation woes didn’t affect our enjoyment of being in Tarifa, and we had the most fabulous short break, in the most southerly town in the Cádiz province.
Before checking in, we had a couple of hours to kill, so hit the coast road, intending to get to the famous beach of Playa de Bolonia, and the ruins of the Roman town of Baelo Claudia, considered to be the most complete Roman town ruins yet uncovered in Spain. On this occasion, we got no further than the dunes of Valdevaqueros, which were amazing! The road along the dunes was also a bit of an experience, as the strong, hot winds had blown sand across it, so it was a bit like driving on the beach itself. And the wind. Oh, the wind! It was so blustery, but also felt like a hairdryer – so much so, that I declined the running up the sand dunes task…
Tarifa feels such an easy town. There’s a real laid back vibe, with it’s surfer dudes, board shops, independent shops and boutique hotels. Plus it’s very, very pretty especially inside the old town walls. Because we weren’t really on holiday as such, we didn’t spend all of our time out and about. We still had to do client work and, due to malfunctioning aircon in the apartment (another story), quite a lot of our time was spent dealing with the agency who rented it and booking.com. All was sorted, kind of, in the end, but it did curtail our exploration of Tarifa. However, we weren’t too concerned as we did get out and about and now that we are moving towards being settled in Andalucia, we figured we could always come again.
So, our discovery of this beautiful town, was largely done in the evenings and at night, when we headed out to eat. Despite the issues we had with the apartment, its location was fantastic, right in the heart of the old town, about two minutes from the hustle and bustle of gorgeous restaurants, bars and independent shops. Tarifa has become increasingly popular with tourists, but it has managed to retain much of its charm and authenticity, and this is so evident in the old town.
If the history of places interests you, then Tarifa is well worth a visit. The region has been inhabited for thousands of years, with evidence of Neolithic, Phoenician, and Roman settlements. The Roman town of Baelo Claudia, located nearby, was a significant port city in ancient times. In the 8th century, Tarifa was one of the first places in Spain to be conquered by the Moors, and it remained under Islamic rule for several centuries, the town getting its name from the Moorish commander Tarif ibn Malik, who led a raid on the Iberian Peninsula in 710 AD. It was then reconquered by Christian forces in 1292 during the Reconquista, the campaign to reclaim Spain from Muslim rule. Its strategic location made it an important military and trading hub. Historically, these are probably the key attractions to visit :
- Castle of Guzmán el Bueno: This fortress, built in 960 AD during the Moorish period, was later expanded by the Christians. It’s named after Alonso Pérez de Guzmán, a local hero who defended the town from Moorish invaders in 1294.
- Puerta de Jerez: This is the only remaining gate of the old medieval walls that once surrounded the town, offering a glimpse into Tarifa’s past.
- The Beaches: Tarifa is home to some of Spain’s most beautiful beaches, including Playa de los Lances, Playa de Valdevaqueros, and Playa Chica. These wide, sandy shores are popular with beachgoers and water sports enthusiasts.
- Roman Ruins of Baelo Claudia: Located just a short drive from Tarifa, this well-preserved Roman city features a forum, temples, a basilica, and a fish-salting factory.
Tarifa’s architecture and culture reflect its long history of Moorish and Spanish influence. Whitewashed buildings with tiled roofs and narrow, winding streets give it a distinctly Andalusian feel, but being only 10kms across the sea from Morocco, you can also feel you are in North Africa. It’s definitely a town which blends cultural influences and has a really unique feel to it.
And, although I don’t think we’ll go the whole hog and take part in any of the activities on offer, such as wind-surfing, paddle boarding, kiting etc, we’ll definitely return to this most southerly part of Spain, with its very unique vibe.
