by Helen | Oct 30, 2013 | Italy, Travel
Tuscany is an area of Italy I’ve never really discovered -I’ve visited & stayed in Florence and Pisa, but have never before experienced the rolling hills and fields full of sunflowers, which seem to be so associated with this part of Italy. But, in the first week of September, that was put right, with a stay in a small Tuscan town, about 30 km south west of Pisa (where we flew into direct from Manchester), called Santa Luce. Sadly, we’d missed the sunflowers in full bloom, but it was still very, very warm! And even though we’d had a lovely English summer, it was a different kind of warmth – an Italian warmth.
We were staying with friends, so the villa we stayed in was slightly bigger and more grand than if we had been on our own, but a gorgeous way to end a very busy summer and begin a bit of relaxation…
Santa Luce is a small town. You definitely need your own transport as it’s also fairly isolated. However, it is possible to get to Pisa, Florence and Lucca for a day trip as motorway access is good (the FiPiLi – Florence Pisa Livorno road – is the quickest way to get around the region). We visited the Tuscan coast – there are plenty of beaches along the “Toscana Riviera” but Vada, with its white sand fringed with pine woods, is probably the most well known…
A little further afield, but well worth the drive, is the medieval walled hilltop town of San Gimignano, famous for its fourteen towers of varying heights, which dominate the skyline. The town is very much geared up for tourism – there are huge car parks at the foot of the hill and the streets are full of shops selling miniature towers etc – but it is still a must see. We were lucky that we visited on a Tuesday in early September – not a weekend in July or August – as there weren’t crowds and it was easy to get around. And find a parking space, which I guess are at a premium in the height of summer…
by Helen | Oct 30, 2013 | Greece, Travel
update : september 14
Once again, we found ourselves pulled towards the magic of Paxos, after travelling around Sardinia, and so when we had a night’s stop-over in Corfu town, we couldn’t resist Hotel Siorra Vittoria again. Sometimes, when you don’t have long to spend somewhere, the familiar is a great option – and we found this to be true, this time around. A 10 minute taxi from Kerkyra Airport and we were checking in – last year we stayed in the annexe, this time we were on the second floor, and the room was just as beautiful…
Still can’t over-emphasise the luxury of a bath when travelling – a huge plus point with Siorra Vittoria. As well as the amazing breakfasts which you can take in the garden. This hotel really is something quite special & one that I think we may be visiting a few more times as we continue to explore Western Greece…
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Having a night in Corfu town (Sept 2013) before catching an early flight to Rome, I wanted to find somewhere that had a touch of luxury but didn’t break the bank. Somewhere that was very central to the old town. And somewhere that had a bath, not just a shower. Possibly a bit of a tall order, but if these are your requirements too, you might like where I found…
First of all though, Corfu Town. My last visit to Corfu was seven years ago, enroute again to Paxos. I’d done a quick internet search & found the Hotel Atlantis, conveniently located to the port. But short on any kind of luxury. We didn’t investigate Corfu town much further than the port and hired a car and drove north to Kassiopi. A great decision at the time as it’s a beautiful harbour town & we wouldn’t have known about this had we liked Hotel Atlantis…
This time, though we didn’t have the time to get anywhere else & so it was decided Corfu Town had to be investigated. And how glad am I that we did – it’s stunningly beautiful…
But what made the trip memorable, was the Hotel Siorra Vittoria, located just behind the beautiful City Hall Square, on St Padova Street. The website describes it as an “aristocratic mansion” – and that’s just what it is! Beautifully decorated in heritage colours, full of antique furniture (although certainly not stuffy), it’s like taking a step back in time. Our room (large bedroom & large bathroom – with bath!), was one of two, in a garden annexe right next to the main hotel. (The room was called Nicola, if you’re interested). Being a little bit away from the hotel, and in a little walled garden, there was a feeling of complete privacy, and it didn’t actually feel like staying in a hotel. Perfect. The room was absolutely beautiful with attention to detail clearly being very high on the agenda. And the bathroom – yes, a bath! Utterly gorgeous – and if you fancy a touch of luxury for a short stay, then I can’t recommend Hotel Siorra Vittoria highly enough. We took a taxi from the port to Hotel Siorra Vittoria as we weren’t sure how far away it was – if you have a lot of luggage, get a taxi (about 10 euros). However, if you’re not laden down, the walk away from the port towards Corfu Old Town is well worth it – about 30 minutes.
by Helen | Oct 24, 2013 | Italy, Travel
The early morning market in Ortigia, Siracusa (Siciliy), is a sight to behold. Whilst we do have some excellent fresh produce markets here in the UK, this Sicilian one blew us away…
Every kind of fresh vegetable and fruit seemed to be available, along with fish caught that morning, cheeses, breads, olives, oils. The sheer number of stalls was incredible – and the banter between stallholders, vying for buyers’ attention was a piece of theatre in itself. The market is raw and gritty and if you have a delicate constitution, certain areas should definitely be avoided! The fish section, for example – especially when the traders are competitively chopping, slicing, skinning and discarding the less savoury parts of the fish from the parts which will bring the most money.
The hustle and bustle is palpable. There’s no polite queuing here – if you see what you want, you have to push forward or someone else will have what you have your eyes on. Hands thrust forward, people jostle, and shout over you. Again, if you prefer the more sedate pace in Waitrose, Ortigia Market may be a bit of a shock. Underfoot, you’re likely to stand in produce which has fallen off stands, or the discarded parts of vegetables. It is sluiced down, but this all just adds to the feeling of chaos.
However, look closer, and you’ll see it’s not chaos at all. It’s carefully manged and orchestrated piece of open air theatre. All of the stall holders know their parts. The lead actors – the fish guys, it would seem – play to the crowd magnificently. Cameras and phones are held aloft, snapping away and recording this free entertainment, presumably to later be posted online. Making stars out of the performers.
The market, like all Italian markets, is not just about the food – but this is the star of the show. We saw people leaving with mattresses and bedding from the household section. Electrical goods are available, as well as agricultural. Religious artefacts can also be purchased. Clothes, ornaments, shoes, household products, flowers, plants, pet products. Everything you could need, in one vibrant corner of Ortigia.
If you ever visit this authentic, totally Sicilian city, our advice is, take in the market. If you need any more convincing, here’s what Think Sicily has to say…
Turning left at the entrance to the island will take you immediately to the colourful daily morning street market, which sells a fantastic array of fruit, vegetables, fish and meat. At the end of the market is a must-see for food lovers: a delicatessen of rare quality, called “I Sapori dei Gusti Smarriti” (literally the flavours of lost tastes). Here you can find cheeses, hams and cured meats of the very best quality, many of which, especially those produced in Sicily, you will find nowhere else. There is also an excellent assortment of wines, condiments, sun-dried tomatoes and other Sicilian delicacies made by the shop’s owners in their “laboratory”.
